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FURTHER ORCHID CULTURE

Here are some tips on the following groups:

Cool Growing Species

Warm Growing Species

Brassias

Cattleyas

Dendrobiums

Miltoniopsis

Pleiones

Paphiopedilums & Phragmipediums

Miniatures

Orchids on Bark and in baskets

Zygopetalums

How to Feed your Orchids

COOL GROWING SPECIES

Cooler growing orchid species are well suited to the British climate as we have quite a temperate environment here. They often come from high altitude habitats in the mountain ranges of South America or the Himalayas where the temperature can drop quite low at night in the cool season. A general rule is that most cool growing species need to drop to 10 C (50 F) in winter, some will even take 8 C (45 F). This is a difference of around 10 degrees from the normal daytime or summer temperature required. This fluctuation is entirely natural and necessary to ensure the correct growing and flowering of the orchids. If a cool growing orchid is kept constantly too warm then this can prevent flowering.
Here are a few of the most popular genera of cool growing species:

COELOGYNES: These come from India and Malaysia, growing high in the mountains. They often rest in winter when much less watering is required, just enough to keep the pseudobulbs plump. Regular watering is needed in summer when the new shoots are growing. These include C. cristata, C. ochracea, C. fimbriata and C. fuliginosa. Some species may grow in the winter though so check individual plant labels. There are also a few warmer growing species too.
DENDROBIUMS: These orchids live in similar habitats to the coelogynes, so require the same culture including resting in winter. Some species are semi or totally deciduous also. Popular species are D. nobile, D. densiflorum, D. fimbriatum and D. kingianum.
ENCYCLIAS: These are Central and South American orchids also requiring cool conditions but not always such a definite rest, some actually grow through winter. Give more regular watering when in growth and less when the pseudobulbs are complete.

Other genera liking cool conditions are Odontoglossum, Oncidium, Maxillaria, Brassia, Bifrenaria, Masdevallia, Pleurothallis and Cymbidium.

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WARM GROWING SPECIES

Warmer growing orchid species need a little more care when growing in the British climate as we have quite a temperate environment here. They often come from lower altitude habitats in South America, Africa and the Far East. A general rule is that most warm growing species should not go below 15 C (60 F) in winter. This is a difference of around 10 degrees from the normal daytime or summer temperature required. This fluctuation is entirely natural and necessary to ensure the correct growing and flowering of the orchids. This extra warmth can mean that the plants dry out a bit more quickly so they may need more regular watering and spraying to increase the humidity.
Here are a few of the most popular genera of warm growing species:

BULBOPHYLLUMS: These orchids like slightly drier conditions so don’t mind drying out well in between waterings and require a rest in winter when they are not growing. These also require good light but shaded from the bright, direct summer sun. They are from all over the tropical areas of the world.

ANGRAECUMS: Some of these orchids can grow quite large and require warmth and high humidity. Regular watering and misting all year round. These are from Madagascar.

VANDACEOUS TYPES: These include ascocentrums, vandas and aerides. Often they are growing in empty baskets with little or no compost so rely heavily on high humidity. Hang them in good light and spray daily. These are Far Eastern.

Other genera liking warm conditions are Catasetum, Cattleya, Laelia, Aspasia, Miltonia, Dendrochilum, Paphiopedilum, Phragmipedium and Phalaenopsis.

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BRASSIA CULTURE

The Brassias are commonly known as the ‘Spider Orchids’ due to their spindly flowers. They are very attractive when in bloom with graceful arching spikes of many showy flowers. They come in various shades of green with variable darker markings on the petals and lip. Also the flowers are sweetly scented and they are mostly spring or summer flowering. The plants have dark green leaves and oval pseudobulbs with a compact habit.

RE-FLOWERING: The blooms come from the side of the newly matured pseudobulb. They need fairly good light to help regular blooming which is generally annual in the spring or early summer months.

TEMPERATURE: Intermediate with a minimum 12°C (55°F) in winter, daytime maximum of 30°C (85°F). Will grow best in a humid greenhouse but some will grow well in the home.

LIGHT: To help with re-flowering keep all brassia types in good light all year round, shaded from the bright summer sun but good light in winter.

WATERING: They like to be moist all the year round as many tend to grow in the in the winter months. They also make copious aerial roots so these will enjoy regular spraying. They are grown in open bark compost and like to be grown hanging up in a basket or a hanging pot.

Repot when the plant has outgrown its pot or basket, they don’t mind being a little over the side of the pot, when the new

growth is young in the late summer.

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CATTLEYA CULTURE

The Cattleyas have been bred with many different families such as Laelia and Sophronitis to make many complex hybrids including Laeliocattleya, Sophrolaeliocattleya, Brassolaeliocattleya and Potinara. They tend to have large, showy flowers in bright colours with some miniature varieties too. The species are not so common and come from Brazil and other South American countries. They have upright pseudobulbs with thick, leathery leaves.

RE-FLOWERING: The blooms come from inside a sheath produced at the top of the newest mature pseudobulb, at the base of the leaf. They can be singular or several on a head. Annual flowering usually in spring or autumn.

TEMPERATURE: Intermediate with a minimum 12°C (55°F) in winter, daytime maximum of 30°C (85°F). Will grow best in a humid greenhouse but some will grow well in the home.

LIGHT: To help with re-flowering keep all cattleya types in good light all year round, shaded from the bright summer sun but good light in winter.

WATERING: They do not like to be too wet so are grown in an open bark compost to ensure good drainage. When in growth in the summer water regularly and spray too, especially aerial roots. In winter, rest with only occasional watering and spraying on sunny days.

Repot when the plant has outgrown its pot, they don’t mind being a little over the side of the pot, when the new growth is young in the spring or summer.

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DENDROBIUM CULTURE

The Dendrobium family of orchids is one of the largest and comes from the all over the Far East. They are typical in their unusual habit of growth, which consists of tall, thin pseudobulbs, which tend to be called ‘canes’. The modern hybrids can be split into two main groups depending on their different temperature requirements. The cooler types tend to produce their flowers along the length of the cane, whereas the warmer ones usually have a spray of flowers from the top of the mature cane .

RE-FLOWERING: Simply trim off old flower stems when they have finished and the plant will reflower again the following year provided the conditions are right.

TEMPERATURE: Cool types need a drop to 8°C (45°F) in winter to help with flowering, keep cool and maybe stand out of doors in the summer. Warm types grow well in a warm room, minimum 15°C (60°F) in winter.

LIGHT: To help with re-flowering keep all dendrobiums in good light all year round, shaded from the bright summer sun but good light in winter.

WATERING: Cool types need regular watering in summer and feeding too. Rest in winter when hardly any water is required and again necessary for the re-flowering. Warm types like to be watered well when in growth in summer but again kept on the drier side when resting in winter although not quite so dry as the cool varieties.

Stand in a ceramic pot if they become too top heavy or repot into a slightly larger size in spring after flowering.

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MILTONIOPSIS CARE

The Pansy Orchids are very showy and so called because of their large, flat, rounded, pansy-like flowers. They are often fragrant and come in a range of shades of pink, purple, red, white and occasionally yellow. The species come from Colombia but are seldom grown. It is the more easily kept modern hybrids that are popular to grow in the home or shady conservatory.

RE-FLOWERING: These orchids flower mostly in the late spring and early summer, lasting for several weeks, longer if there is a succession of flower spikes on a larger plant. New spikes will be produced from the newest mature pseudobulb.

TEMPERATURE: Intermediate with a minimum 12°C (55°F) in winter, daytime maximum of 20°C (70°F). Will grow best in a humid greenhouse but will also grow well in the home.

LIGHT: They have soft, pale leaves so require a well shaded position in summer, more light in winter is helpful with the re-flowering though.

WATERING: They do not like to be too wet so are grown in an open bark compost to ensure good drainage. When in growth in the summer water regularly and spray too as they enjoy good humidity. If they get crinkled leaves this is due to lack of humidity and should be sprayed more often.

Repot when the plant has outgrown its pot, after flowering in the summer or autumn.

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PLEIONES

These are very pretty, easy orchids to grow for beginners. Many growers keep them alongside alpines as they are very cool growing. The flowers last for about 2 weeks and re-flower every spring from the newly emerging shoot.

TEMPERATURE: In the winter their orchids lose their leaves and rest as dormant pseudobulbs. Therefore they can withstand very cool temperatures down to 5°C (40°F). In summer try to keep the temperature down with good shading and ventilation, on average around 15-20°C (55-65°F).

WATERING: Start watering in the early spring when the new shoots have begun to grow from the side of the pseudobulb. The new roots it will produce do not wbnt to dry out so keep moist throughout the whole time the plant is growing. Stop watering when the new pseudobulbs are completed, then the leaves will drop off. Give no  water at all from this point through the winter whilst they are dormant and leafless.. Feed every 7-10 days when growing.

REPOTTING: Pleiones should be repotted every spring into a mixture such as fine bark, general purpose compost and perlite.

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PAPHIOPEDILUM & PHRAGMIPEDIUM CARE

One of the most exotic orchid groups are the ‘Slipper Orchids’ These unusual flowers have a slipper-shaped lip at the front of the flower which, in nature, help the flower become pollinated. In their native countries they are terrestrial, living in the ground or maybe on rocks. They do not have bulbs like other orchids but instead produce shoots that form into a clump. The flowers come from the centre of the newest mature shoot. Paphiopedilums come from the Far East whilst phragmipediums are South American. Some paphiopedilums have attractive mottled foliage.

RE-FLOWERING: When your Slipper orchid has flowered cut the stem right off and the plant will start to grow a new shoot. When this is mature it will produce the next bloom. Some have single flowers; others are multiflowering.


TEMPERATURE: Most Slipper orchids are warm growing requiring a minimum temperature of 15°C (60°F), with a daytime maximum of 30°C (85°F). Some plain leafed Paphiopedilums need a cooler minimum 10°C (50°F).
LIGHT: Keep well shaded from bright, direct summer sun as this can scorch the leaves. Give as much light as possible during the dull winter months.


WATERING: Keep the free-draining bark compost moist all the year round. When watering the plant, remove it from any cover pot or saucer, pour water through the pot and then let it drain before placing it back in a decorative planter. Never let the pot stand in water. Allow the compost to dry out slightly and the pot to become lighter before watering again. Avoid watering collecting in the crown of the plant as this can cause a rot. Add a little orchid fertiliser to the water once every 2 or 3 waterings (approx. every 10-14 days) all year round.

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MINIATURE ORCHIDS CARE

There are many thousands of truly miniature orchids in the world, some only reaching a few centimetres in heights with flowers only several millimetres across! Many of these species come from very high altitudes in the mountain ranges where they live in the cloud forests of the tropics. They take up very little space so are ideal for those growers who are running out of room! They are often grown well in a disused aquarium or terrarium where a humid environment can be created for them.

RE-FLOWERING: The various species will flower within their season whenever the right time of year comes around. With correct culture the orchids will flower easily each year.

TEMPERATURE: Most miniature species like to be cool, especially in summer so a minimum 10°C (50°F) should be maintained in winter. Plenty of ventilation and shade will help this.

LIGHT: Keep well shaded especially in summer to prevent scorch and dehydration.

WATERING: Little pots dry out quickly so water regularly to prevent dehydration and mist often also especially in summer. This will increase the humidity which they enjoy.

Repot if necessary when the plant has outgrown its pot, but they will stay small so take care not to overpot.

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ORCHIDS ON BARK AND IN BASKETS

Many of the tropical species grown in cultivation grow as epiphytes in their natural habitat of the rainforest. This means that they grow up on the branches of the trees where they can benefit from the light, air movement and humidity. We can grow many of these on pieces of cork bark or in baskets, hanging in the greenhouse or conservatory so they can grow in conditions more like their natural environment. Please note that it is not recommended that orchids are grown on bark in the home as they will dry out too often in the less humid atmosphere. Vandas and related genera are often grown in open wooden or plastic baskets with no compost. These too must be grown in a very humid environment to prevent dehydration.

Many different species of orchid can be grown in this way and will bloom at various times of year when their season comes around. Types with pendent flower spikes grow well in hanging baskets.

Watering: Plants growing in this way need regular watering by spraying, this needs to be done daily during the warmest parts of the year, or even dunked in a bucket of water for 30 minutes if they are drying out too quickly. Add fertilser to the water during the growing period.

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ZYGOPETALUM CULTURE

The Zygopetalums grow well alongside odontoglossums and miltoniopsis. They are popular houseplants with their unusually coloured purple and green flowers and very strong fragrance. They can, though, be a little temperamental to grow for the beginner as they are susceptible to rotting if kept too wet. The original species originate from South America where they grow both terrestrially and epiphytically but most of the plants available today are hybrids bred from a few species over several generations.

RE-FLOWERING: The blooms come from the side of the new growth when the plant starts to grow, not a mature pseudobulb. With correct culture, the plant should re-flower quite easily but if it does not then try changing the conditions and giving more fluctuation between the day and night temperature.

TEMPERATURE: Intermediate with a minimum 12°C (55°F) in winter, daytime maximum of 25°C (80°F). Will grow best in a humid greenhouse but some will grow well in the home.

LIGHT: Zygopetalums like the shade and so should be kept out of bright light, especially in summer when they will need a bit more shade than other orchids.

WATERING: They like to be watered well when they are growing their new leaves but ensure that the compost dries out in between waterings. Never leave to stand in water. Light misting can be done in warm weather but avoid water collecting in the new growth or settling on the leaves for too long as this can cause the growth to rot or spots to form on the leaves.

Repot when the plant has outgrown its pot, after flowering when the new growth is making new roots.

HOW TO FEED YOUR ORCHIDS

Orchids are not heavy feeders as in nature nutrients are not readily available to them in the treetops; they are adapted to use what little they can find. Therefore, in cultivation we keep the feeding of orchids very simple.

At Burnham Nurseries we use and recommend the feed called Orchid Focus which has been especially formulated for orchids. It is available in two types and should be used as follows:

Most orchids are seasonal and have a main growing season during the spring and summer months. These include CYMBIDIUMS, ODONTOGLOSSUMS, MILTONIOPSIS, DENDROBIUMS and COELOGYNES. For these types of orchids use Orchid Focus ‘GROW’ from the BEGINNING OF FEBRUARY TO THE END OF JULY. This is high in Nitrogen which helps leaf growth. Then from the BEGINNING OF AUGUST TO THE END OF NOVEMBER use Orchid Focus ‘BLOOM’. This is high in Potash and helps with the finishing of growth and development of flowers. Add feed to the water every other watering, it can be poured through the compost and sprayed onto the leaves and roots. These plants can go without feed for December and January, as light levels are lower and therefore they are unable to use the feed efficiently.

PHALAENOPSIS are not seasonal; they grow and flower at any time of the year. Therefore Orchid Focus Grow and Orchid Focus Bloom can be used alternately throughout the whole year every other watering as above.

For further directions see the label on the bottle.

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